Next day you can assemble everything again, this time including the wheel-pant piece 557.
Mate the 557 piece with the wheel-pants and mark the position on 556. Disassemble everthing, put 557 back onto 556, and drill 1mm pilot holes from the wheel-pant side. Enlarge these holes according to the size of the screws.
Now assemble the wheel-pants with the wheels inside. The wheels have to be positioned in the middle. The centre position can be fixed by using washers or a small aluminium tube of suitable length. Finally, the locking collar is placed on the axle and the grub-screw is tightened. (good idea to flatten the axle at the point where the grub-screw touches.
The edges of the wheel pants must be enlarged enough, so that there is adequate space, around the tire, especially at the rear. Otherwise it can happen that on landing, the tire bulges, and catches the wheel-pants. A sudden stop will result, likely with damage!
Next we have to drill 557. The original uses a lot of screws. To properly position woodring 558d on the inside of the wheel-pants, drill 2 pilot holes. Once satisfactory positioned, disassemble things again. The reinforcements for wheel-pant filler piece 558d must be glued in such a way that pilot holes are covered. (You can use 5 minute epoxy for this)
After the glue sets, you can drill the holes to the proper size and drill the remainder of the holes too.
These filler pieces can be finally fitted, once the wheels and wheelpants are all assembled. Use sheet metal screws 558e for this purpose.
After this step, the remainder of the glass parts 559, 560 and 561 can be roughly (but not glued!) fiited.
We can now glue in the firewall 562 with epoxy. At this stage you have already decided what motor to use (we hope) otherwise this is your last chance!
If you are going to use a ’round’ motor, you can leave the firewall as it is. If a 2 or 4 cylinder boxer is used, you must make cut outs for the exhausts. These cut outs are already marked on the formers. I like tunnels for the exhausts, because they keep the inside of the fuse clean.
The area between firewall, and top and sides is to be coated in epoxy, it stops the fuel soaking into the wood. I also cover the firewall on both sides with light glass cloth. This also helps preventing any fuel soaking into the wood.
To help the firewall fit into the sides, slightly chamfer the tabs.
No we continue at the other side of the fuselage. Here we assemble tail-wheel 563. Pre-drill support 565, so that screws 566 can be easily screwed in. Fix the ‘U’ part with 2 sheet metal screws 566 onto 565. Next attach the tail wheel assy to 513 with 4 more 566 screws, and glue part 565 with the already fitted U-part in the position as indicated by the plan.
Of course you have to make sure that the tail-wheel sits straight and in the middle, and that the steering movements work properly. Next add reinforcement 564.
Next I recommend to start the assembly of the baldachin.
Building the baldachin.
Annoyingly the first paragraph of the document is not complete, the image has been copied over the text. All I can say is that it involves parts 163-168..
It continuous:
Please insert the tubes with alu-tubes into the holes. If you did a good job, the holes line up and the tube can be inserted without great force. Please don’t glue the tubes yet.
The plywood trailing edge reinforcement 184 can now be added. Also leading edge 170 can be inserted in the relevant cut outs of the ribs. The top support spars for the fittings can be added at this stage. Everything should be left to thoroughly dry before lifting it from the building board. Next glue the lower 174 spar in position. Then the upper trailing edge covering 163a. Press the wood down so that when sanding the upper and lower TE, the plywood support is in the middle. (see picture) In other words, the plywood becomes the edge. After the glue for the spars has dried, the supports 177 and 178 can be added. Make sure that you glue these properly and tightly against the spars, this makes adding plywood reinforcements 175 and 176 easier.
Next we add the plywood reinforcements. If parts 177/178 extend beyond the spars, then you must be sanded back to the level of the spars. Parts 175/176 must be lifted to the level of the sheeting. Especially at the front it can happen that they extend a little. A bit of balsa must be added to the spars to fill the void, so that the sheeting can be fitted properly. The rear spars can be finished with parts 172.
To fit the baldachin to the fuse, we are using a jig 196. It is made of 4 side pieces and 8 corner pieces. The sides and front/rear pieces are identical. The front and rear part can be inserted into the fuse 500 near formers 502/504. (don’t glue, just insert!) and fix them with clamps. The sides are positioned in such a way that the highest part is at the rear. (see picture) If you made it all perfect, the baldachin will sit exactly horizontally on the fuse.
(If not, fix it!) The wingincidence of -1 to -2 degrees will automagically be correct too.
Do make sure to take a few measurements, to make sure everything is square with the rest of the fuse, and bottom wing section/tube.